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Europe’s most (and least) family-friendly country? Five writers have their say

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But other things are a bit harder to measure. Which country makes the best wine (take a deep breath, France, it’s just a question)? Which has the most impressive national cooking style (again, France, no need to get defensive – we all know “cuisine” is one of your specialties, and while this might be proof of your undeniable skill in the kitchen, let’s keep the discussion civil)?

Is there a European country that has taken the lead in tolerating mistreatment of little children?

Regular contributors weigh in on which European country is the most family-friendly destination – and which corner of the continent is the least welcoming to the sound of tiny and mid-sized feet.

Friendliest: Greece

Surrounded by the warmth of its climate, and content with its situation amidst the gentle rustling of olive trees.

If that sounds like a familiar stereotype, I’ve often thought that’s exactly what it’s like to visit the southeastern corner of Europe. I’ve seen that Greece has its problems and difficulties, but I’ve rarely seen the negative side, when the smile turns to a frown. Greece has always seemed carefree and welcoming, regardless of what’s going on in the world, during my 20 or so trips there.

I’m not sure I need to add the word “family” to “friendliest” – after all, the Greek temperament is known for being open and affectionate towards children. This is one reason why Greece has been a popular vacation spot for me since I became a dad. I remember many small acts of kindness, but one that stands out is a restaurant in Parga, in the northwest part of Greece, where the chef – a mother herself – took our little one for a walk around the dining area for five minutes, giving my wife and me a chance to eat in peace while we were exhausted.

Least friendly: The UK

It seems that the British attitude towards children is often less welcoming in certain restaurants, as if they shouldn’t be seen or heard. This lack of warmth towards the younger generation is quite different from what I’ve experienced in Mediterranean countries. Perhaps it’s because I’m used to living under grey skies most of the year, whereas I only get to bask in the sun for a short time during July and August. There’s an old saying that goes, “familiarity breeds contempt,” but I’m not sure if that’s the case here.


Chris Leadbeater

Friendliest: Wales

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You’d be amazed at how unspoiled and wild Wales still is, even with kids as young as 10 and almost 13, who can enjoy activities like navigating through muddy fields, spotting newts, wading through streams in rain boots, and camping under the stars with only owls for companions. For parents, the best part is that you don’t have to break the bank to experience all the excitement Wales has to offer.

Walking across the Biblins Rope Bridge over the Wye River, which spans the Welsh border, is free of charge – unless you treat yourself to a marshmallow-topped hot chocolate at the café on the other side. You can also explore Hay-on-Wye’s used bookstores for free, where you’ll discover timeless treasures. For a fun activity, try sliding down hills to a low-lying area where you can spot tadpoles in puddles, like the Castrogi Brook area in Llanvair Discoed near Chepstow.

From Tintern Abbey, where a guide gave the kids a secret tour and sparked their imagination with stories of hidden messages and ghostly legends, to Llangollen’s Oggie Shop, where the server was incredibly patient as they chose pastries, the Welsh people have been very kind to us. That’s why we’ll be returning this year.

Least friendly: Crete, Greece

It appears that Crete’s winter sunshine can feel quite cool. Upon checking into a hotel just east of Chania, it didn’t really make a difference that our path to the beach was blocked by a busy stretch of highway over industrial wasteland.

We decided to skip building sandcastles and visit Chania’s Archaeological Museum instead, where we saw Roman mosaics and a Minoan sarcophagus, but also had to deal with a security guard yelling at kids who were getting too close to the glass exhibits. To lift everyone’s spirits, we headed to a water park, which was a success, but we couldn’t shake off the feeling of concern every time the kids zoomed down the rickety slides into the cold, murky water while the lifeguards seemed completely uninterested.

Spending time with family didn’t seem to be a priority for the island, but we did have a fantastic meal at a restaurant tucked away down a charming lane in a nearby fishing village. It was during a leisurely walk along the beach after dinner that we stumbled upon two dead rats on the sand. The sight was so disgusting that not even the local stray cats seemed to care – although my son later surprised me by including it as one of his vacation highlights.


Amanda Hyde

Friendliest: Italy

A child recently complained, “It’s so boring!” when she encountered the long lines at every airport, hotel, rental car agency, and tourist destination.

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You’ve got a five-year-old’s dream vacation.

Beyond that, there are the stunning beaches of Sardinia for kids, the historic and action-packed city of Rome for elementary school students, Instagram-worthy sites like Pisa’s famous Leaning Tower for preteens glued to their screens, and the artistic attractions in Florence, including the Uffizi and Accademia galleries, for young adults and older high school students.

How about a couple of big glasses of Chianti for mom and dad to go with that pizza?

Least friendly: France

Parents: “Come on, Charlie, give French a try! The locals really appreciate it when you make an effort to speak a few words in their language, and it will also help you prepare for your GCSE.”

Charlie: [nervously] “Hello. May I…”

French waiter: [sighs dramatically, rolls eyes, adds €10 to the bill and talks over Charlie in an impatient and slightly rude tone] “You want the burger, yes?”

elsewhere.


Ed Grenby

Friendliest: Austria

A perfect family vacation requires three essential elements: engaging activities, warm cuisine, and a cultural atmosphere that makes children feel included and valued. Austria does an excellent job of meeting these criteria, and its neighboring countries, Germany and Switzerland, also deserve special recognition for their efforts in this regard.

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The French have also adopted this dish as their own. And then there’s the schnitzel and fine wine for the parents – plus Austria, Germany, and Switzerland are all much more vegetarian-friendly than countries like France or, often, Britain.

One of the many attractions the city of Mozart’s birth offers is classical music accessibility.

Least friendly: Spain

“Believe it or not, she gets too hungry for dinner at eight,” Ol’ Blue Eyes sang. This wasn’t a comment about British kids’ eating habits, though it could have been. The Spanish are famous for their late eating schedules: lunch doesn’t start before one, dinner is at eight, and meals drag on. If your child isn’t naturally inclined to take a nap, this can be tough. The French also stick to set restaurant hours, but they’re a bit earlier, which works well for British kids.


Sara Sherwood

Friendliest: Turkey

I’m particularly fond of Kalkan, Turkey, with its tranquil and welcoming atmosphere. It’s a charming coastal town located near Antalya, about a two-hour drive from Dalaman Airport. The town boasts excellent rooftop eateries where you can enjoy mezze while listening to the enchanting sounds of the evening call to prayer. I also plan to purchase a single rose from the same cheerful flower vendor we’ve encountered every year, who affectionately greets us as “the chicken family” – a nickname that originated from the time we all coincidentally ordered the same chicken kebabs during our first meeting.

During the day, I visited a beach club, got a Turkish massage, and then strolled through the quaint, hilly town’s charming shops, picking up replica football jerseys for my son and fake designer perfumes for my daughter. I sipped on a refreshing mint tea while observing the various reasons tourists like us come to this place – some for snorkeling, others for dental treatments, and so on.

During the October half-term, when the temperature is around 77 degrees Fahrenheit, the nearby beaches at Patara, which are nestled among ancient Lycian ruins, and Kaputas, with its picturesque white sand, are generally quiet. For a day trip, consider Saklikent Gorge, about a 20-minute drive away, where you can go river-rafting through one of the world’s deepest canyons, and then, at the riverside restaurant, enjoy a delicious lunch while taking in the scenery from a hammock, even indulging in dessert, which was so good that it triggered a gallstone, but I still managed to have room for it.

The kids love taking a day trip from Kas to the Greek island of Meis, where they get to swim in the stunning blue cave and then, later, watch my wife, who’s terrified of turtles, run frantically from a harbor-side restaurant when a giant turtle named Maximus comes by looking for scraps.

Least friendly: Iceland

The scenery beyond the wall is breathtaking, but having a picnic with ski gloves on at a waterfall in the Golden Circle while the kids are shivering in freezing temperatures and gusty winds of over 100 miles per hour at -7 degrees Celsius? No thanks.

“Sneaker waves” tragically claim a few lives each year on the hazardous coastlines. I’ve never seen the Northern Lights, unfortunately, due to the frequent cloud cover. The capital city, Reykjavik, is an unattractive sprawl of concrete, cranes, and corrugated metal, and a standard glass of wine costs more than a meal at a restaurant. It’s impressive that they utilize geothermal hot springs to heat most homes, but it does result in a constant smell of sulfur. I also haven’t mentioned the occasional wild ponies that might attack a car, or the widespread boredom and chaos that sets in on New Year’s Eve due to the lack of sunlight, prompting people to fire rockets into the streets in search of entertainment.


Ben Hatch

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